Sure, it's no looker, but black garlic is a great ingredient to have in your culinary arsenal
Yotam Ottolenghi
The taste of black garlic is so unlike that of white garlic, you'd think they were different plants. While the garlic we all cook with daily is white, hard and strong-smelling, black garlic is its opposite in just about every way imaginable. Soft, jelly-like and chewy in texture, it is so odourless and mellow that some people pop a whole clove or two into their mouth, as if eating a balsamic vinegar-flavoured wine gum with a touch of liquorice.
Different though the two end-products are, black garlic in fact starts off life white. Even more remarkably, no chemicals or flavourings are added to the clovesto bring about this dramatic transformation. The cloves are subjected to a three-week heat-treatment process during which the natural sugars and amino acids break down in such a way that the garlic turns into an alarming-looking black fermented product. And it's one that is finding its way on to more and more supermarket shelves. Sure, its looks may not appeal to everyone, but with a taste that's reminiscent of molasses and tamarind, it adds a depth offlavour to dishes. For those who aren't quiteready to swap their tin of car sweets for a pot of peeled black garlic cloves, introduce yourself to this dark star by adding a few thin slivers to a crunchy root vegetable and sesame seed salad; or stir some through a prawn risotto. As with black sesame or nigella seeds, these thinly sliced matt-black shards not only add an unexpected flavour, but look stunning, too. Use it in sauces, dips and purées to enliven old favourites. Black garlic mayo, for instance, works brilliantly with classic roast chicken or white fish. Or chop up a couple of cloves, mix with some cream cheese and soured cream, and spread on bruschetta for an exciting twist. Black garlic is a relatively new ingredient in the UK. First sold here in 2009 (it was developed in Korea), it has been produced on these shores since 2012 and is now sold online, insome supermarkets and many healthfood stores. It comes as a whole bulb, a pot of ready-peeled cloves or a puree. There are all kinds of claims to its status as a super-food, and its antioxidant credentials are strong, but it's that genuinely new taste that hooked me. These wonderfully smoky and aromatic short ribs need to be cooked a day in advance (and for four hours or more, too), then marinated for 24 hours and barbecued. You can take the meat off the bone, as here, for easy grilling and eating, butthere's nothing wrong with leaving the bones in, to give the dishthat wholesome, rustic feel. Ideally, I'dserve these with a crisp lettuce salad andsome roast potatoes. Serves four.Barbecue beef short ribs with black garlic and urfa chilli
4 large beef short ribs (2.2kg in all) For the marinade Heat the oven to 140C/260F/gas mark ½. Put the ribs in a casserole for which you have a lid, and add the peeled onion, three-quarters ofateaspoon of salt and stock – theribs need to be immersed in liquid, so add more stock or water, ifneed be.
1 onion, peeled and quartered
Salt
1 litre beef stock
50g peeled black garlic
20g harissa paste, homemade or shop-bought
15g pomegranate molasses
1 tbsp urfa chilli flakes (or other mild dried chilli flake)
50g tinned tomatoes
25ml whisky
15ml red-wine vinegar
1 tbsp maple syrup
½ small onion, peeled and chopped
Put the pot on a medium-high heat, bring to a light simmer, cover and transfer to the oven. Cook for four to four and a half hours, until the meat is completely tender. Remove the cooked ribs from the stock (you can save the stock for usein soups or sauces), and pull offthemeat in large chunks, removing and discarding the bonesand any excess fat. While the beef is cooking, put themarinade ingredients in the small bowl of a food processor, add a teaspoon of salt and blitz to a very smooth paste. Transfer to a large, non-reactive bowl, add the meat and mix so it's well coated. Cover and refrigerate overnight. The next day, heat the oven to 200C/390F/gas mark 6. Put a ridged griddle pan on a high heat and, when it starts to smoke, lay on the pieces of beef; you may have to do this in batches. (You can, of course, also cook the meat on abarbecue outdoors.) Grill for two minutes, turning regularly so the meat takes on colour and smoke on all sides, then transferto a baking tray and place inthe oven for about 12 minutes, until warmed right through. As always, leave the meatto rest for afew minutes before serving.Pear and fennel salad with caraway and pecorino
This autumnal salad makes a real statement at the start of a meal. It is wonderfully fresh yet substantial and very distinctive in flavour. Make sure your pears are nice and sweet. Serves four to six.
3 tbsp lemon juice Mix the lemon juice and vinegar in a large bowl. Add the fennel and leave to soften for about 45 minutes, stirring from time to time. Put the oil, caraway, maple syrup, a quarter-teaspoon of salt and some black pepper into a small bowl, strain in the lemon and vinegar from the fennel bowl and stir well.
1 tbsp sherry vinegar
1 large fennel bulb, cut in half lengthways, then each half cut widthways into 2mm slices
2 tbsp olive oil
1½ tsp caraway seeds, toasted and lightly crushed
1 tsp maple syrup
Salt and black pepper
10g picked dill
75g rocket
3 medium ripe conference pears, peeled, quartered lengthways, cored and cut into 0.5cm wedges
60g pecorino, thinly shaved
Add the dill, rocket, pear and pecorino to the fennel bowl, pour on the dressing, toss lightly and serve.
• Yotam Ottolenghi is chef/patron of Ottolenghi and Nopi in London.
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